We are in Salento, a land kissed by the sun and bathed by two seas. Land of enchantments but with a troubled past, often the subject of invasions and looting. Thus it happened that during the long periods of siege, the populations could not afford to live. But, as they say, virtue is made of necessity and in Gallipoli they invented a way to preserve fish in order to always have a supply available. This is how some recipes were born that later became typical, such as the scapece.
It is a method of preserving fish that involves the use of a few, simple ingredients. It starts with fish, the blue fish that is caught in the local waters, usually ope and cupiddhi (or boghe and zerri), so-called poor but very tasty fish.
Young fish, small in size, are preferred, which are then fried and then preserved in a marinade of extra virgin olive oil, wine vinegar, bread and saffron.
It is said that Emperor Frederick II of Swabia was also fond of this dish and that he had the scapece prepared by his trusted cooks with fish specially caught in Lake Lesina.
Credits @stevenmilano
There are several versions of this recipe but what matters is the raw material which must be very fresh. Today it is easy to find this dish even in the most renowned restaurants of Salento but it was once considered a poor dish, mainly intended for fishermen.
The Gallipoli scapece is widespread throughout Salento and especially in summer it is not difficult to come across one of the many festivals dedicated to this delicacy. If you don't want to wait for the next trip to Salento to taste the scapece, take note of the ingredients and try your hand at the recipe, you will be conquered.
Flour and salt to taste. First, flour the whole fish and fry them until they have taken on a golden color. Drain them on absorbent paper and add salt to taste.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, dissolve the saffron in the vinegar and mix well. Then, take the bread, remove the crumbs, pour in the vinegar and let it rest for a few minutes.
At this point, in a fairly high container, create a first layer of soaked crumb on which to place a layer of fish. Continue to alternate the layers until you have consumed all the fish, then leave everything to marinate for a day. Serve with white wine at the right temperature, strictly from Puglia.
